Hair Porosity Explained

Have you ever wondered why some hair products work wonders for some but leave your hair feeling lacklustre? The secret might lie in your hair's porosity – its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Understanding your hair's porosity is the first step towards a healthy and vibrant mane.

Hair porosity is determined by the structure of the hair's outermost layer, the cuticle. Think of the cuticle like shingles on a roof. How tightly these shingles are packed determines how easily moisture can enter and exit the hair shaft. There are generally three categories of hair porosity: low, medium, and high. While genetics largely determine your hair's porosity, external factors like heat styling and chemical treatments can also alter it over time.

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity

Several simple tests can help you determine your hair's porosity at home:

• The Strand Test: Take a few clean strands of hair and drop them into a glass of room temperature water.
  • Low Porosity: If the strands float on the surface for several minutes, your hair likely has low porosity. The tightly packed cuticles prevent water from being easily absorbed.
  • Medium Porosity: If the strands float in the middle of the glass or slowly sink, you probably have medium or normal porosity. The cuticle layer is neither too tight nor too open, allowing for balanced moisture absorption and retention.
  • High Porosity: If the strands quickly sink to the bottom of the glass, your hair has high porosity. The open cuticle allows water to be absorbed rapidly but also to escape just as quickly.
• The Spray Bottle Test: Spritz a small section of clean, dry hair with water.
  • Low Porosity: If the water beads up on the surface and doesn't get absorbed quickly, you have low porosity hair.
  • Medium Porosity: If the water sits on the hair for a short while before gradually being absorbed, your hair is likely medium porosity.
  • High Porosity: If the water is absorbed almost immediately, your hair has high porosity.

• The Feel Test: Run your fingers up a strand of hair towards your scalp.
  • Low Porosity: The hair will feel smooth because the cuticles are tightly closed and lay flat.
  • High Porosity: The hair might feel slightly rough or bumpy due to the raised or open cuticles.

Understanding the Different Porosity Types

Low Porosity Hair

Low porosity hair has a tightly bound cuticle layer with overlapping scales. This makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair shaft. However, once moisture is in, it's also difficult for it to escape.

Characteristics:

• Water and products tend to sit on the hair rather than being absorbed quickly.
• Takes a long time to get fully wet in the shower.
• Products can easily build up on the hair.
• Takes a long time to air dry.
• Resistant to chemical processes like colouring and perms.
• Hair often lacks volume and can feel heavy with the wrong products.

Suitable Products and Techniques:

• Lightweight, water-based products: Avoid heavy oils and butters that can sit on the hair. Look for ingredients like water, aloe vera, and glycerin high on the ingredient list. Examples include lightweight leave-in conditioners, hair milks, and sprays.
• Heat to aid penetration: Gently applying heat (e.g., using a hair steamer or a warm towel during deep conditioning) can help to slightly lift the tightly closed cuticle and allow moisture to enter.
• Clarifying shampoos: Use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove product buildup that can prevent moisture absorption. Opt for sulfate-free formulas to avoid stripping the hair of its natural oils.
• Apply products to damp hair: This helps the product to be absorbed as the hair dries.
• The L.C.O. or L.C.G. method (Liquid/Leave-in, Cream, Oil/Gel): Apply products in this order, using lightweight formulations. The liquid or leave-in provides moisture, the cream helps to seal it, and a light oil or gel further locks it in without weighing the hair down.

Medium Porosity Hair

Medium porosity hair has a looser cuticle layer that allows for a balanced flow of moisture in and out of the hair shaft. This hair type is generally considered the easiest to manage.

Characteristics:

• Absorbs and retains moisture relatively well.
• Gets wet easily in the shower.
• Product buildup is less common.
• Air dries at a moderate pace.
• Holds styles well.
• Responds well to most products and treatments.

Suitable Products and Techniques:

• Versatile product choices: Medium porosity hair can tolerate a wide range of products, from lightweight to moderately heavy.
• Balanced formulations: Opt for products that provide a good balance of moisture and protein to maintain the hair's health.
• Regular conditioning: Deep conditioning occasionally helps to maintain moisture levels and overall hair health.
• The L.C.O. or L.C.G. method: This method works well for medium porosity hair to ensure proper hydration and moisture retention.
• Avoid excessive heat: While medium porosity hair is more resilient, excessive heat can still cause damage over time.

High Porosity Hair

High porosity hair has a more open cuticle layer with gaps and spaces. This allows moisture to be absorbed quickly, but it also escapes just as rapidly, making the hair prone to dryness and frizz.

Characteristics:

• Absorbs water and products very quickly.
• Dries very quickly.
• Prone to frizz and tangles, especially in humid or dry weather.
• Feels dry and brittle easily.
• Can be more susceptible to damage from heat and chemical treatments.
• Often requires frequent reapplication of moisturising products.

Suitable Products and Techniques:

• Rich and heavy products: Butters (like shea and mango butter - mango butter is generally lighter), heavy oils (like avocado and olive oil), and thick leave-in conditioners help to fill the gaps in the cuticle and seal in moisture.
• Protein treatments: Incorporating protein-rich products can help to temporarily fill the gaps in the cuticle, reducing breakage and improving moisture retention.
• The L.C.O. or B.L.O.C. method (Base/Liquid, Leave-in, Oil, Cream): Layering products is crucial for high porosity hair to maximise moisture retention. Start with a liquid or leave-in conditioner, followed by an oil to seal, and then a cream or butter for added moisture and hold.
• Deep conditioning regularly: Frequent deep conditioning treatments with moisturising masks help to replenish lost moisture.
• Cool rinse: Finishing your washing routine with a cool rinse can help to close the open cuticles and seal in moisture.
• Protective styling: Styles like braids, twists, and buns can help to minimise moisture loss and protect the hair from environmental stressors.
• Avoid harsh sulfates: These can strip the hair of its natural oils, further exacerbating dryness.

Understanding your hair porosity is a game-changer in your hair care journey. By choosing the right products and techniques tailored to your hair's unique needs, you can achieve healthy, hydrated, and beautiful hair that thrives.